Do you know what an espeto is? Have you ever seen sardines roasting over wooden skewers stuck into the sand, with the sea as a backdrop and the scent of summer floating in the air? If you’ve visited the Costa del Sol, chances are you have. And if not, get ready to discover one of southern Spain’s greatest culinary treasures: the espeto de sardinas.
What is an espeto?
The espeto is much more than a cooking technique. It’s a tradition, an experience, and almost a way of life in places like Rincón de la Victoria, Torremolinos or anywhere along the Málaga coastline. It involves skewering sardines (or other fish such as sea bream or bass) onto a wooden stick, piercing them from side to side, and roasting them directly over embers — usually in fishing boats transformed into open grills right on the beach.
The word espeto comes from the Spanish verb espetar, meaning “to skewer meat or fish with a pointed stick to cook it over a direct flame”. Simple, rustic and delicious.
The origin of the espeto: a truly Malagueño tradition
The espeto was born in the 19th century, in the Málaga province. Specifically, in the fishing district of El Palo, where in 1882 Miguel Martínez Soler began roasting sardines over open flames for his customers, using skewers made from reeds. What started as a practical solution soon became the star dish of beach bars (chiringuitos) up and down the coast.
Since then, the espeto has become a summer symbol, evoking open-air living and Mediterranean culture. So much so, that efforts are underway to have it recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
How do you make the perfect espeto?
Though it may look easy, preparing a true espeto is an art. It’s not just about placing sardines on a fire. The fish must be fresh and medium-sized — not too large, not too small. They are carefully skewered in the same direction and at a slight angle to ensure even cooking.
The key lies in the embers: not too hot, not too weak. Traditionally, olive wood is used, adding a distinctive aroma. The espetero (grill master) controls the exact point of doneness, turning the skewers to get crispy skin and a juicy interior. A sprinkle of coarse sea salt… and they’re ready to enjoy.
Where to try it?
Rincón de la Victoria is one of the best spots to savour an authentic espeto. Many seaside restaurants and chiringuitos along the promenade still prepare them in the traditional way — grilled on fishing boats buried in the sand. The ideal pairing? A cold beer, a Mediterranean sunset and great company.
More than a dish: a lifestyle
The espeto represents the essence of Andalusian cuisine: simple, flavourful, and deeply rooted in both sea and land. In summer, nothing beats watching the sun go down as the scent of grilled sardines fills the air.
And it’s not just sardines. Although sardines are the most iconic, you’ll also find espetos of squid, octopus, sea bream or bass. Just make sure the sardines are in season and roasted over fire — otherwise, it’s not a real espeto.
Ready to taste it?
If you’re planning your holiday on the Costa del Sol, make space in your schedule (and your stomach) to try one of the region’s most iconic culinary delights. Because the espeto is more than just food: it’s history, culture, and pure seaside flavour.
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